JUST ANOTHER SATURDAY
Well it’s sat morning time to go for a surf,southerly been blowing for a day or so ,must be a pulse in the swell
try the points I think, take the old mal with me, be on the safe side in case it’s small. whack the boards on the car I drive past Burleigh not much swell getting in there head for Currumbin.WOW It’s a lake seen bigger waves in the canal’s. you have to be kidding long boarders stand up paddlers, boats, ski’s one thing missing waves, must be between sets take a walk out to the point, take a couple of pics
start thinking, yes I sill think , well I am here might as well get wet take the mal for a paddle.God’ I must be desperate air temp about 16 degs water warmer at 19.for the coast this is wet suit weather. I paddle out the waters refreshing .I have a chat about nothing with some of the old guys, they bull shit about some of the sets that came thru earlier.forty + years of surfing and I still love it. At my age it’s a social thing. 20 min into the session see something that looks like a wave paddle catch it ride 30 metres that’s it there’s all ways tomorrow
LAST WEEK
Last week I meet this great American lady her name is Emily Anne Smith
singer and song writer she is with EMMA AND THE SWEDES a New York BAND
over here for a few gigs and loving it, she gave me her cd <pretty cool>